The Lower Level at the Sawin Museum is chock-full of kitchen tools.  Part of the story of these items is the way in which we as humans are constantly improving our methods and technologies.  The Museum illustrates this progress in an interactive 19th century Dover kitchen exhibit.

Several objects in this collection have as yet unknown purposes, and it is satisfying when we succeed in answering the question:

“What is it?”

This mystery object sat on the shelf for years, with the assumption that it is some type of masher.  Recently we were creating a shelf organized by purpose and questioned what it would have mashed.  Too small for potatoes, created before the time of locally-available avocados, and not sharp enough to cut even butter or soft cheese, its purpose eluded us.

We reached out to Tom Kelleher, Historian and Curator of Mechanical Arts at Old Sturbridge Village.  After some asking around Tom identified it.  It is a raisin seeder!  This tool has not changed since the late 1800’s and it is now obsolete.

This patent for the device shown (https://patents.google.com/patent/US511803) dates from 1894 and was awarded to two men, one from Everett and one from Somerville, MA.  A quick eBay search revealed a similar example described as an “1880 Everett Raisin Seeder” and the eBay seller suggested that it might be an excellent stocking stuffer (probably as a “what is it?’ curiosity!).  After 18 bids it sold for $37.75 in 2014.

Seedless grapes were a natural mutation, and farmers learned that by grafting plants they could expand their crop of seedless grapes without needing to grow vines from seedlings.

In 1876 a Scottish immigrant, William Thompson, did just that in California and was soon sharing cuttings with friends. The practice continued and by 1920 the Thompson seedless grape was the preferred variety chosen for producing raisins, and was the first commercialized seedless grape (jasminevineyards.com).

Today grapes with seeds are hard to find.  At the Caryl Farm we grow an historically local Concord variety that are large and sweet.  Visitors in the late summer are encouraged to taste them, and most children are surprised by the seeds.  The days of needing the “Everett Raisin Seeder” are truly over.

The tool may be obsolete but the raisin is still an American mainstay.  Below is a classic New England recipe that features this dried fruit.  Interestingly, 95% of all raisins are still Thompson Seedless (SunSentinel, September, 2017).

The Best Old-Fashioned Hermits Recipe

(newengland.com, Yankee Magazine recipe archives, 1952)

“Crisp, chewy, sweet and spicy; this raisin-studded hermits recipe bakes up the perfect iced bar cookie.”

Total Time: 30 minutes, plus chilling

Hands-On Time: 15 minutes

Yield: 16

Ingredients

• 2 cups all-purpose flour

• 2 teaspoons baking soda

• 1½ teaspoons cinnamon

• 2 teaspoons ground ginger

• ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

• ½ teaspoon ground cloves

• ½ teaspoon kosher salt

• ½ cup unsalted butter

• 1 cup brown sugar (light or dark)

• ¼ cup molasses

• 1 large egg

• 2/3 cup raisins

• 1 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted

• 5–6 teaspoons milk

Instructions

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, spices, and salt. Set aside.

In a large bowl or in the bowl of a standing mixer, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the molasses and egg and continue to beat, scraping the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula if necessary. Gradually add the flour and spices mixture until just combined. Stir in the raisins.

Chill the dough for 30 minutes.

While the dough chills, preheat the oven to 375° and line a large baking sheet with parchment.

Once dough is chilled, shape it into a ball and cut in half. Shape each half into a log 12 inches long and arrange on the prepared baking sheet, leaving at least 3 inches between the logs. Press down lightly on the tops of the logs with your fingertips to give them a slightly squared-off shape.

Bake on the center rack for 15 minutes, or until the edges are just barely crisp. Remove from the oven to cool.

In a small bowl, combine the confectioners’ sugar and milk until smooth but not too runny. Drizzle over the logs while they are slightly warm.

Allow the icing to harden before cutting into bars.

 

By Lori Carbone